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THE
MODHERA SUN TEMPLE - GUJARAT
The
Modhera sun temple is situated on the bank of the river Pushpavati,
30 kms from Mehesana and 125 kms from Ahmadabad in northern
Gujarat. This is an ancient township, traceable to the Puranic
age, when it was known as Dharmaranya. It is believed that
Lord Rama performed here a yajna (sacrifice) to purify himself
of the sin of having killed a Brahmin - Ravana, the king of
Lanka. Rama built "Modherak" which subsequently came to be
called "Modhera". It became a pilgrimage centre for hordes
of people who thronged to the place to pay homage to Surya.
The Modhera temple is the creation of the Solanki era in Gujarat
when it was ruled by Bhima-I in 1026-27. This was the time
when Somnath and the adjoining area was plundered by Mahmud
Ghazni and reeled under the effects of his invasion. The Solankis,
however, regained much of their lost power and splendour.
Anahilvad Patan, the Solanki capital, was restored to glory.
Royalty and traders jointly contributed to build grand temples.
The first view of the sun temple is breathtaking, with the
pillared portico of the sabhamandap reflected in the massive
tank. The weathered golden brown stone of the edifice has
an overpowering grandeur. The temple follows the contemporary
stylistic traditions, incorporating twin compartments - a
shrine with the cells housing the presiding deity and the
mandapam or sabhamandap (assembly hall). A narrow passage
connects the two structures. The lower portion of both structures
is ornamented with horizontal bands of sculptural decoration.
The mandovara (upper wall portion) is covered with panels
of large images of deities from the Hindu pantheon, placed
in their carved niches and tabernacles. The vimana or the
spire has horizontal bands of figurative and geometrical designs,
all rising to the apex of the pyramid, and recreating in stone
the mythological Mount Meru - abode of gods. Urusrimgas, miniature
replicas of the shrine, cling to the central spire. Although
the spires over the cells and sabhamandap were destroyed by
the invaders and have survived only in the core pyramidal
structure, an idea of their form can be had from the spires
of the small temples built on terraces of the steps over the
tank.
The temple interior is peristylar and consists of superbly
carved pillars. Covered with lavish sculptural decoration,
these pillars are examples of the perfect craftsmanship of
the Solanki artisan. These pillars are geometrically arranged
to create an octagonal space at the centre of the hall used
quite frequently for ritualistic dance performances.
The sabhamandap is a small independent structure. The four
entrances have ornamental toranas (decorative hangings over
the entrance) which have a marvellous quality of intricate
and precision craftsmanship. At the centre of the hall is
the walnut shaped ceiling, with its numerous folds of floral
girdles, upheld by two aisles of pillars arranged on diagonals
of the square plan. Even at its dimly lit height, the astounding
splendour of stonecraft shines brightly. It is a visual delight
to stand under the 23 feet high ceiling.
The structure containing the sanctum is modest in size but
a rare gem of architectural and sculptural decoration. At
one time, the image of the Sun, cast in gold, was placed at
the centre of the sanctum to receive the first rays of the
sun. The invaders removed the image for its gold and left
the sanctum walls bereft of any decoration - a mere empty
jewel casket. The structure is oblong in shape, 80 feet by
50 feet, with a single entrance over which the artisans have
worked like jewellers. The slender columns at the porch are
ingeniously crafted. On the exterior walls are the large panels
of gods and goddesses, celestial maidens, nymphs and dancers,
and of course impressive images of Surya riding his chariot
across the heavens. Very discreetly, the profuse erotic sculptural
panels have been placed at inconspicuous angles to avoid unnecessary
attention.
The entire structural complex at Modhera is aligned to the
east, to the rising sun. Kama Kunda, the water tank, meant
for ritualistic ablution before offering worship, is one of
the most perfectly designed structures of its kind in the
country. A regular well-patterned lateral formation of stone
steps descends upto the bottom of the tank. The geometrical
configuration of steps allows a direct or diagonal descent
from all the four sides. On the small terraces on the steps
are small temples with niches housing Vaishnavite deities.
The dramatic play of light and shade on these steps creates
a fascinating impact. The stepped water tank at Modhera ruined
columns without their splendid superstructure, which leads
into the sabhamandap. These columns, like every other inch
of space on the temple structure, are loaded with sculptural
decoration of an extraordinary beauty. Thus, the Modhera sun
temple is a glorious example of Gujarat's rich cultural heritage.
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