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BUDDHIST
SITES - HIMACHAL PRADESH
Hieun
Tsang speaks of the Thathagata's visit to Kiu-lo-to, the ancient
kingdom of Kullu. But there is no material evidence to prove
his statement true. However there are definite archaeological
evidences of institutional Buddhism at Tikka Tambarhar (Pathiyar),
Uparali Dari (Kanhiara), Lakhamandal and Chetru in the upper
Kangra region since the second century BC.
Rewalsar, located about 20 km
south-west of Mandi town, is the most sacred site of Buddhism
in Himachal Pradesh. The place possesses a pristine beauty
characterised by an emerald green lake, and surrounded by
thick woods on all sides. According to a popular legend, the
spirit of Guru Padmasambhava dwells on the islands floating
in the lake. A majestic pagoda-type monastery looms on the
lake-shore, which enshrines a huge stucco image of Padmasambhava.
The interior is embellished with murals in mixed Indo-Chinese
style. According to legend, it was from this site that Padmasambhava
proceeded to Tibet on the invitation of King Sron Btsan Sgampo,
to disseminate dharma on the very roof of the world. It was
this religion that came to be known as Lamaism. Rewalsar is,
thus, for the Buddhists what the Mecca is for Muslims.
Beyond Rohtang Pass in Lahaul valley, the Guru
Ghantal monastery, located on the confluence of the
Chandra and the Bhaga rivers, may be the oldest centre of
Buddhist pilgrimage. Downstream, on the left bank of the Chandrabhaga
is Tunde village, site of another ancient Buddhist shrine.
This shrine is popularly known as Trilokinath and enshrines
an image of Boddhisatva Avalokiteshwara. The archaeological
evidence found at this site indicate that it had been a significant
Buddhist as well as Hindu pilgrimage site in the distant past.
Further below at the confluence of the Chandrabagha river
and the Miyar stream, is an ancient temple of Marichi Vajravarahi
at Udaipur, the earliest surviving relic of Indian Buddhism
in the valley. It now enshrines a brass image of Mahishasurmardani.
The Buddhists continue to regard this site as a temple of
Marichi Vajravarahi.
Located at around a distance of 4 km from Keylong, the district
headquarters of Lahaul and Spiti, perched on the edge of a
steep precipice is the Lardang monastery,
on the left bank of the Bhaga. A multi-storeyed structure,
with white-washed walls and fluttering flags, it houses a
series of enormous prayer-wheels which revolve on the slightest
touch. At a distance of around 1.5 km from Keylong is the
Shashur monastery. It was founded
by Lama Dewa Gyasatshe of Ladakh in the 17th century. This
monastery is famous for its ritual-plays which are enacted
by the lamas while donning masks and exotic costumes. This
three-storey tall structure is significant in architectural
terms. Due to the narrowness of the site, the complex has
been planned vertically, yet it conforms to the ancient mandala
concept.
Following the up-stream course of the Chandra river, takes
one to the Spiti valley across Kunzamla. Located in the trans-Himalayan
arid and arctic zone, this region is characterised by a stark
and barren landscape. One of the oldest Buddhist establishments
in the Spiti valley, is the monastery
at Gungri located deep in the Pin valley. It is the
only monastery which belongs to the red-headed sect - the
Nyingmapa - founded by Padmasambhava.
The 'Gem of Himalaya', or the Tabo monastery
is the most important, oldest living monastic complex outside
Tibet. It was founded in 996 AD, on a symmetrical mandala
concept. The hill-top Ki monastery
is the most prominent feature of the Spiti valley. This monastery
is an outstanding example of the monastic architecture which
developed during the fourteenth century in the wake of the
Chinese influence. The monastery was plundered in the middle
of the seventeenth century by the Mongols.In the nineteenth
century, it again suffered three brutal attacks. The successive
trails of destruction and patch-up jobs have resulted in a
haphazard growth of box-like structures, and the complex now
resembles a defensive fort. Among the other important monasteries
in the Spiti valley are an ancient temple at Lha-lun, and
another temple complex at Dhankar.
The temples at Dhankar seem to be precariously dangling between
heaven and earth !!!
Way below in the Sutlej valley in the Kinnaur
area are the temples of the Lotsaba era at Nako. Adorned with
mandala murals and stuccoes, these temples enshrine the legendary
footprints of Padmasambhava and Parguli devta. Further downstream,
on the right bank of the Sutlej, is the famous monastery-village
of Kanum. Kanum literally means
the 'place of Kangyur'. It was a village rich in scriptural
learning in the eleventh century when Rin-chen-bzang-po established
a school for scholastic learning here. The Kangyur building
is older than the books it houses. The sets of Kangyur and
Tangyur found here were printed out of the wooden blocks at
Narthang in 1820 AD as replacements of the originals destroyed
by the Gurkhas. The inner faces of its walls are richly embellished
with many stamped square clay tablets. The Kangyur has had
the distinction of playing host, for three years, to Hungarian
scholar Alexander Csoma-de-Koros.
Following the down-stream course of the Sutlej, takes one
to newly built monasteries at Moorang and Ribba. The pilgrimage
to Buddhist sites in Himachal Pradesh come to a fitting conclusion
at Parwanoo, the out-post of
Himachal towards the Indian plains, where an Ashokan Brahmi
inscription was discovered recently. The inscription on the
rock known as Kali Pathari records the existence of a shelter-place
for the preachers, bhikshus and pilgrims who spread the message
of Buddha into the Himalayan interiors and beyond in the remote
past.
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