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DOG
CARE
DOG BATH
& EQUIPMENTS FOR DOG BATH
If
your dog is dirty, he will need to be bathed. If he is a light-colored
or white dog, he will need to see the inside of the bathtub
or kitchen sink often. During flea and tick season, he may
also need frequent insecticide baths. Longhaired dogs usually
need regular baths to get rid of "doggy" odor. Many Terriers
and shorthaired dogs only need to be bathed a couple times
a month. Where you bathe your dog depends on his size. Small
dogs can be bathed in the kitchen sink. Large dogs will need
to be bathed in the bathtub.
Bath Equipment:
1. Rubber mat or large towel (for dog to stand on in tub or
sink)
2. Shampoo
3. Flea shampoo (optional)
4. Small bucket (large dogs)
5. Sponge
6. Cotton balls
7. Wide toothed plastic brush (thick coated dogs)
8. Big towels
9. People hair dryer or canine dryer (free-standing preferred)
Bathing:
Before beginning, always brush and comb your dog thoroughly
to eliminate dead hair, knots and mats. Have all the necessary
products and towels ready before you put your dog in the tub.
Clean your dog's ears if necessary and place a small ball
of cotton in the ears to soak up any water accidentally entering
the ear canal (a common cause of infection). Place a rubber
mat or towel on the bottom of the sink or bathtub. A hand-held
rubber spray attached to your faucet is very helpful for managing
the water.
Dogs with thick fur need to be completely wet to the skin
before applying shampoo. Some dogs have an oily coating on
their fur that makes it waterproof. A good quality dish detergent
will eliminate this oily coating and let the shampoo (and
conditioner, if used) penetrate.
Large dogs with thick double coats can easily take an hour
to bathe. A raised tub makes this process easier. Although
it is especially important with large dogs, all dogs should
learn to tolerate bathing as puppies. They need to get used
to having hands all over their bodies and to remain willingly
in the tub until the final rinse is complete. While bathing
a large dog, have ready the needed quantity of shampoo in
a small bucket, diluted with warm water. Use a sponge to apply
the shampoo mixture to your dog's coat. For smaller dogs,
apply dabs of shampoo to the back, each leg and under the
tail. Work up a good lather down to the skin, proceeding from
back to front. Take special care to clean the anal area and
paw pads.
Unless the dog has fleas, start wetting him down, rear end
first and work toward the head. Pay special attention to the
anal area. (If your dog has fleas, however, wet and wash the
head with a dog insecticide shampoo first, taking great care
to avoid the eyes.) Make sure he is completely soaked before
proceeding.
Wash your dog's face with a washcloth and baby "tearless"
shampoo, taking great care to avoid the eyes. Tip the head
up to rinse. Rinse every part of your dog's body until all
traces of soap are gone and the water runs perfectly clear.
This step is very important because any remaining residue
will irritate your dog's skin and make the coat dull and also
prone to infections.
At this point, you may add a conditioner. A handful is sufficient
for a Golden Retriever sized dog. Work it into the coat and
leave on for a minute or two. At this time, any minor knots
can be relaxed with a little extra conditioner. Very scrupulously
rinse away any remaining traces of conditioner. And then dry
him.
If your dog is short coated, you can rub the coat to absorb
excess moisture. However, longhaired dogs should have their
coats squeezed, not rubbed, to avoid tangles. Use as many
towels as are needed to get your dog to the "damp-dry" stage.
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