Hot This Festive Season?
Sanyukta, Seasons Correspondent Mumbai,
As the monsoon season ends and winter sets in, the colours
in every wardrobe change dramatically from bold to mellow
and bright to pastels. But not till Dasera
and Diwali come and go.
For the festive season is a time for ethnic threads with bold
and bright undertones. However, most designers do not specifically
work on festive themes. They make it only a reference point
for the collection that will unfold for the following fall\winter.
Manish Malhotra who has come a long way from Reverie
to Sheetal in mainstream
designing, has decided to stick to the feminine look this
season. Manish loves working
in all shades of pastels and that is going to be evident in
the clothes he has in store for the festive and fall collection.
He says, "as people like wearing the traditional during festive
season, I am concentrating on Indian garments." Interestingly,
he does not specify whether this Indian line is going to be
ethnic or the Indo-western type. "I would rather want you
to see the clothes in person to know what they really are
because they are completely different from the existing categories.
My accent, this season, is on softer tones though these days
everybody works for a more bolder and modern look," he informs.
Indeed, Manish like his
Sheetal counterpart Hemant
Trevedi has always believed in "less is more",
that has been his forte all along.
Another designer who is opting for a softer look this season
is, the ethnic and chic specialist, Shaina
N C. The designer smiles from her south Mumbai
Golden Thimble boutique, "festive season for me is about lots
of sarees, blouses and borders. I would want the Indian woman
to be innovatively dressed despite the traditional look."
Shaina has decided to
work in all shades of pink and fuschia for the season. "That
is my colour this season," says the designer for whom pastel
colours like peach, pink, silver, peuter and aqua shades have
always been a favourite. Shaina,
however, admits that the fashion scene this season is low-key
as "there is no spending power and catchment." Going by her
past record - she had recently held a fashion show with women
achievers like Poonam Dhillon
and Rashmi Uday Singh
participating in it instead of the usual models - looks like
Shaina has something really different in store for the coming
season. The clothes they had displayed were specially designed
for people like them or for whom Shaina calls, "the real people."
The innovative concept was well received and set the trend
for more such informal evenings.
However, Tarun Tahiliani,
one of India's greatest designers, is sticking to the bolder
look. The collection unveiled at Ensemble, Tarun's
boutique in Mumbai, is all about ruby reds, emerald greens
and deep blues, the colours traditionally meant for festive
season. He also had on show evening wear, which was dominated
Tarun's clothes are full
of asymmetrical cuts, which is his favourite. But there is
not much change from the traditional when it comes to designs,
motifs and embroidery. For instance, one notices that his
threads are full of heavy work like zardozi and lot of gold.
Tarun reasons, "festive
season is meant for traditional wear, you will hardly find
anybody wearing something drastically Western on such occasions.
It is only at cocktails that women wear innovative and Western-influenced
or the Indo-western wear." Then there were clothes in chikan,
Tarun's favourite fabric,
apart from net, lycra and crepe. Tarun's
designs for men ironically, have an elegant feel compared
Anita Dongre whose AND
boutique at Crossroads is a favourite with many upwardly mobile
people, is another designer who prefers working in pastels
to bold. Anita who had
experimented with block printing and Bandhani designs for
Western wear has plans to continue with the colours and theme
except that the clothes will look more Indian. Hopefully,
she will give a go-by to fusion ensembles like tank tops and
ghagras and palazzos and kurtas. Bela Sanghvi who specialises
in designing sarees is planning to give a new look to Patola,
Jamdani and Ashavali sarees by bringing in a lot of fusion.
Especially in Ashavali she has used a lot of gold, silver
and pink instead of the traditional colours.
A closer look at the threads available at leading stores like
Seasons, Asopalav and Pantaloon suggests that suddenly ethnic
is in. SEASONS's 'Sentiments' collection uses all the traditional
Indian colours like ruby red and emerald green and floral
motifs. "It is all about salwar-kameez in different shapes
and sizes" quips Vandanna Roy.
Saturday saw the unveiling of Cinnamon, S Kumars' new pret
line introduced keeping in mind the forthcoming festive season.
With Hrithik Roshan as their brand ambassador they are sure
to steal some limelight from other established pret lines.
As Hrithik said, "this will change the way you think about
your wardrobe. Let the world know that what's on your body
is what's on your mind," the collection will definitely make
a difference to most wardrobes.
The other designers to watch out for this season are Krishna
Mehta, Wendell Rodricks, Seema Roye, Leena Tipnis and Benu
Sehgal. Krishna Mehta
who has been designing for men for a long time, is into women's
fashion these days and is likely to go by the traditional.
Rodricks has not yet made clear what he has in store for the
near future. As for the others, they have always liked to
work on the traditional look. Leena Tipnis' Linarika label
is popular so also Benu Sehgal's innovative sarees. Not to
forget, Meera and Muzaffar
Ali who are also into traditional threads in a
big way. EOMů