hot for this Season?
Sanyukta, Seasons Correspondent Mumbai, August 1:
It is raining cats and dogs. Braving all those puddles
and slush you have to reach office on time. As you turn to
cross the road, an autorickshaw passes by splashing the muddy
water on your saree. Next you try to catch a bus but end up
getting drenched in the thick downpour. After you reach office,
you try to wash off the mud and squeeze out the excess water
from your pallu. But it is not so easy. The
result is you shiver through your bones the whole day in the
air-conditioned environment. Had the fabric of your saree
be rayon or
silk you could have avoided this mess. It is this
necessity that has caused the advent of monsoon
fashion in India. India, which is still waking
up to concepts like fashion seasons was blindly aping the
Western idea of spring/summer and autumn/winter collection.
However, for the past couple of years, designers like Vandanna
Roy Of Sentiments
have started bringing out monsoon collections.Says Vandanna,
"during monsoon, the accent is on bold colours, pastels are
out simply because the sun is not shining as bright as it
was in summer. Fabrics like blended cotton and polynylon
are ideal for this season. Chiffon and crepe are out as they
lose their sheen once they are wet. I prefer thicker fabric
material as it will also keep you warm. My personal favourite
for monsoon is capri pants teamed with tank tops, I think
it is the best for the season.
"Sunita Ramnathkar's Barcode
has worked on the Jungle theme
this monsoon. Says she, "my designers have captured the thick
greenery and wild dense growth of jungles for the monsoon.
Deep beige, olive green are the dominant colours in this pret
collection." But not all designers believe in bold colours
Goa-based Wendell Rodricks
prefers to bring out the various hues of sea to dark bold
colours of greenery in his collection for the season. The
dominant colours in Wendell's collection include blue, green,
indigo and white. The fabric used is blended cotton.
According to Dinesh Chheda
who has been designing ethnic threads for women for more than
25 years, "most women prefer wearing salwar-kameez to sarees
during monsoon. That apart, they generally do not buy anything
major during this season. All their buying is confined to
summers or festive occasions. Hence, I do not see the need
to design for this season. However, if I ever design for monsoon
then the accent will be on synthetic fabrics and bold colours."
In contrast, leading designer Seema
Roye has brought out Splash, an exclusive collection
comprising six different segments, to welcome rains. Seema's
collection consists of elegant beach wear, Indo-Western fusion
and traditional Indian wear. Her palette is as wide as blue,
peach, light copper and white. Palazzos teamed with tank tops
are among the fusion wear and elegant zardozi work on satin
mark the ethnic collection. Her fabrics include satin and
Unlike Seema, Shaina NC does
not design for monsoon nor does she believe in any kind of
work on her clothes for the season. She avoids fabrics like
cotton, crepe and organza. According to her, "silk is best
suited for the monsoon. It also gives scope for variation
in the hues."
Anita Dongre whose AND
outlet at Crossroads avers, "traditionally,Indian women used
to have a different variety of clothing exclusively meant
for the monsoon. It is only now that we have realised the
need to revive this tradition. I have not brought out anything
new for this season but my fusion wear, which is a blend of
Indian bandhani with Western outfits, seems to be the right
choice to offset this season."
Designer Jai Ramrakhiani
makes special bermudas for the monsoon. "I think bermudas
are best to avoid the various hassles of heavy downpour,"
Vikram Phadnis simply
treats monsoon as an off season and takes a break during this
period. He would rather concentrate on his autumn\winter collection
than design for monsoon.
designer Manish Malhotra
has similar views. Says he, "I think colours like blue, light
purple, indigo, lemon yellow and white, which are a designer's
favourite for summer also hold good for monsoon. He does not
see the need to design separately for monsoon.
Deepak Duggal who is
into men's fashion in a big way, has designed special shirts
for the monsoon. Says he, "it is important to use the right
fabric during monsoon as there are certain fabrics which lose
their sheen once wet. Hence, I import a special blend of rayon
and cotton from Italy, which I use for most of my line for
this season. The rayon ensures that the clothes do not cling
to your body and cotton dries up fast so it is an ideal blend
for this season."
With so much to choose from for this season, monsoon will
never be looked down upon as a dull and dreary season anymore.
Most, I am sure, will be ready to welcome the showers. EOMů