Malini Ramini / Falguni & Shane Peacock

Malini Ramani’s collection was very sexy, naughty, spoilt and feminine in its expression. Ankle length tunic dresses with long slits running up the legs, angrakha styled fitted knee length dresses, flirty handkerchief hem dresses with ample movement, teensy mini skirts, rushed tee-shirts and fitted pants, sheer vertically paneled gypsy skirts and sarees with sexy blouses were the mainstay of her collection. The dresses with fully embroidered florals warm colours, and the line of ensembles appliquéd with bold gold and primary coloured patches were also very eye catching. The highlights were the rib knit cholis in single colours or vibrant stripes, embellished with a million golden ghungroos; pompom encrusted bags; and the crystal and mirror work spangled ornamentation. Colours of red, fuschsia, coral, yellow, and orange were set against the neutrals of white, black and nude.

Falguni and Shane Peacock’s collection was meant for the woman who knows her mind. It was bold and in your face hot fashion showcased in saturated tones of blue, pink, orange, blue, black and nude. Fabrics used are sheer nets, crepes, satin, chiffons, georgettes and lots of silk plaids. All of them are embroidered extremely intricately with bunches of flowers, encrusted with crystals and sequins, and enhanced further with giant beads of semi-precious stones. Trousers are the mainstay of the collection, with plenty of options in blouses- cowl necks, asymmetric tanks, shirts, corsets and jackets. Tunic dresses in floral prints, ponchos with massive bunches of leather fringes, ruffled skirts were also seen in the collection. Occasionally fur and feather boa trims also appeared on the necklines, enhancing the glamour.

Dabiri by Vandana Sawhney and Divya Bindra/ Swapan & Seema

Classic elegance at its best, this sophisticated collection by Vandana Sawhney and Divya Bindra was beautifully cut, gracefully embellished, and exquisitely finished. Fitted knee length kurtis, sarees, and jackets were seen alongside soft, floaty, tiered skirts, dresses with asymmetric hemlines, and cowl necked blouses. The treatment of the supple flesh toned chiffons, georgettes and tulles were done so as to create clean straight lines, and the
silhouettes skimmed lovingly over the body. The embellishment incorporated the finest traditions of Indian handwork- chikankari and resham work embroideries, sequins, mirrors, tassels of beads, crystals and pearls. Their colour scheme was limited to whites, bronze and clear transparent, which ensured that the elaborate ornamentation never got imperious or shrill. Seductive gold sequined blouses with deep necks and shirt collar blouses added the glam-power to the sarees and plain silk skirts.

Swapan and Seema showcased options for daywear and special wear. The collection was clearly divided into two categories - the young trendy line for younger women and a second range of traditional bridal wear. The first line was done in red and white canvas, crepes and cottons that consisted on knife pleated mini skirts, flap fronts, and baby-ruffle skirts, blouses with cut-outs, cigarette pants, off-shoulder dresses and capris. They were embellished with embroideries, which were whimsically placed on the bodices in off center positions, on pockets, and pleats. Appliqué was also used to enhance the thread embroideries. The second range consisted of traditional lehenga-choli-odhni ensembles, in deep reds and gold, embellished with old-gold zardozi embroidery. Several options of this classic favourite were presented with various embroidery patterns. The silhouettes were conservation, as required of such ceremonial wear.

Kotwara by Meera and Muzaffar Ali

Kotwara by Meera and Muzaffar Ali is a collection showcased crinkled lehenga-skirts, loose sheer pajamas, straight kurtas and long draped odhnis in pristine white cottons and silver tissues. The white on white hand embroideries and appliqué borders were used effectively along with silver 'mokesh' work, which dotted the ensembles. An element of colour was brought in with the next line in a pastel palette of mint, powder pink, orange, peach and leaf green. Delicate murri embroidery of the chikankari family was used to create flowers, also enhanced with silver 'mokesh'. Dressy but equally subtle were the chiffon lehengas and cholis in colours of rose, peach, pink, mauve, red, and green, as also the silk kurtas with boxy straight loose Aligarhi pajamas in brocade. The finale consisted of rich South Indian silk sarees with gold temple borders and pallas, enhanced with mythological bird motifs. The colours were as ornamental- jewel shades of green, blue, maroon, and orange. They also launched a new range called Khak, made of cottons and linens. Coloured in natural hues of indigo, army greens, and browns, it consisted of jodhpur pants, waistcoats, jackets, short sleeved shirts and textured skirts.

Ritu Kumar

Ritu Kumar's collections this year featured an exhaustive range of crinkled skirts teamed with an assortment of tops. The controlled volumes of the crinkled georgette and chiffon skirts were seen in colours of red, pink, maroon, black, turquoise, fuchsia and cobalt blue.
The design elements consisted of solid jewel colours, typical Ritu prints, and embroideries. An interesting variation was brought in by combining elements from the costumes of Rajasthani and Gujrati gypsies with those of Spanish origin. The skirts were embellished with zardozi embroidery, and some were even teamed with sueded silk-thread embroidered jackets. Another interesting line was the western wear range in faded denims and worked on with floral patterned vintage appliqués and embroideries. The fitted skirts, capris, jackets and pants were pretty and feminine. The lines of white and pastel kurtas teamed with skirts and churidars, and gota work odhni's were equally elegant.

Raghavendra Rathore

Rathod’s range of men's and women's wear was stylish and yet simple. Slim long skirts and slender pants with long side slits were teamed with long shirts-coats, Nehru collared shirts, and backless blouses held together at the front with fine ties. Also seen were exuberant organza skirts tucked in at places to created volume. The colour palette had jewel tones of orange and pink shots, impressive blacks, maroon and stone. Some of the skirts for eveningwear were richly embroidered in old gold, while others were paneled with fabrics and prints of different colours; appliquéd on with gold flowers; and decorated with patched pin-tuck detailing. A multitude of pockets were used as design details. The men's wear range was very impressive, especially the shirts. Their stand-up collars, slim fits and square shoulders created an understated masculine look, which was extremely becoming. Subtle detailing was added in form of interestingly placed seams, and pin tucks. Bandhgala jackets and Jodhpuri riding breeches were also part of Rathore's collection.