K Puri/ Lina Tipnis
K Puri showcased a beautiful collection of gypsy looks.
She works with deep, burnished, Persian colours- olive,
tangerines, pomegranate, coffee, slate, topaz and corals,
in patterns of exotic carpets, embroideries from Kahmir,
Nepal, Gujrat and Rajasthan, and tie-and dye fabrics.
The ensembles comprise of sumptuous layering of fabrics
like tulle, chiffon, all over zardozi embroidered panels,
cottons, and faux fur. There are kaftans, churidars,
off shoulder dresses, easy calf length pajamas with
cuffs, jackets, kurtas, cholis and long fish-tail skirts.
The gypsy elements were added on with the use of elaborately
embroidered and mirror-worked belts, braided fabric
ropes, silver-jangling jewellery, and elaborate head
gear with tulle drapes. Simpler options with desert
embroideries and mirror work were also shown.
by Lina Tipnis was a simple and elegant collection showcasing
informal shirts in cool white linens mixed with panels
of acid-printed cottons with coin sized circular patterns,
with detailing in form of brocade yokes and striped
cuffs. Stone coloured nubby textured cottons are layered
with turquoise and rose coloured chiffons, and sheer
stripes in asymmetric skirts and blouses, trimmed with
ruffled ribbons squiggles, ideal for day wear. The evening
wear options came in form of elegant separates of knee
length asymmetric skirts, deep necked blouses, dresses,
and pants, made of printed sheer knits with chocolate-bit
prints in henna and redwood colours and embellished
with sequins. The formal wear line was in classic black
and white stripes, enhanced with the use of tissues,
brocade insets, and baby ruffles. Churidar pants, Jodhpur
pants, bustiers with lace-up detailing, and blouses
created a chic look.
Jalan' by Lalit & Sunita Jalan / Neelam Saxena
and Lalit Jalan’s collection for men displayed
an array of fabrics like silks, jacquards, twills, handlooms,
gabardine, corduroys, heavy knits and slub yarn heavy
weight fabrics. A wood bark like printed texture is
given to the fabrics, in addition to the colour palette
which is derived from the colours of the woods- moss,
emerald, brown, twilight blue, redwood and cedar. Smudgy
potato prints in yellow, red and blue enhance the rawness
of the embellishment. The silhouettes are fitted to
the body, and consist of well-worked shirts, kurtas,
pants, jackets, and long coats. Dori work, embroideries,
boxy pleating, and symmetric paneling were used to augment
the three-dimensional textured effect. Stoles and scarves
accompanied most of the ensembles, adding a degree of
warmth to the look. The women’s wear was on similar
lines, comprising essentially of jackets and pants.
Somewhere, the collection was successful in transcending
the lines of division between ethnic and western wear,
and created interesting, out of the ordinary clothing.
Saxena is known for designing fabulous men's suits.
Nels by Neelam offers men an extra fashion edge. Colours
of slate, pigeon, grey, brown, black and white are used
in the ensembles. The suits are well-fitted, single
breasted or open front, with minimal yet effective embellishment
in form of seam and panel detailing, wood buttons, twists
of fabrics, and patches of tiger print velvets. Of special
mention are the optical illusion fabrics in red and
black, and gold and black, which were used to craft
fusion –wear sherwanis and long jackets with pointed
collar and cone-like neckties. Formal evening wear shirts
in black, gray and ivory had tone on tone embroideries
and diagonal marbled paneling.
Joshipura / Sabyasachi Mukherjee
Joshipura's collection was glittering and sparkling
all way through with gold, antique gold, and gold dust,
in conjunction with coal black, baby tan, mud, and bark
to set the mood of urban nightlife. She used stained
and distressed leathers with unfinished visible seams,
metallic nets layered with chiffons, and disintegrating
wool crochets and knits. The silhouettes were contemporary.
Off-shoulder tunic dresses elasticated at the waist,
poncho blouses made of dark leather pieces and wool,
wicked handkerchief hem georgette skirts, gathered tights
ablaze with black sequins, tops with ultra-wide rib
knit waist-panels or wrap and tie closures, and ruched
skirts with scraped-off paint prints were crafted to
perfection by Joshipura.
Mukherjee showcased a old world charm in his collection.
Frail velvet tops with puff sleeves, rose embroidered
saris in georgettes, crochet shifts, layered and gathered
cotton skirts with frayed ruffle hems, jackets with
appliqués and feathered ribbons, patchwork blouses
with duchess satin sashes, printed and crinkled chiffon
tunics, sueded waist-coats, and A-line skirts with pom-pom
embellishments constitute the separates, often getting
layered into one ensemble in Sabyasachi's signature
style. He uses muted and subtle colours of faded orange,
lapis lazuli, henna, tea rose, rust and berry in the
solids, and multiple antique floral wallpaper prints
that gently merge into one another.
Modi presented a collection that unfurls like a summer
romance. The line consisted of lean and fitted kurtas
with asymmetric necklines, layered tunics, shifts with
cabbaged edged ruffled hems, deconstructed skirts, and
sarees with wispy choli-blouses. They were embellished
with shadowy tone-on-tone and orange appliqués
of leaf motifs worked on from the reverse side, silver
circular prints, steel meshes, sequin panels, and sparkling
crystals. The soft cottons, crinkled, plain or printed
in white florals added to the cool summery look. It
was followed up with a line in crinkled white sarees
and kurta-churidars with borders in bronze, orange and
gold. The innocent whites then gave way to reds, browns
and golds, which were used in the tissues, crepes, and
georgettes to create semi-formal evening wear. Lehenga-choli-duppatta
ensembles with delicate patti-work embroideries, tissue
sarees with brocade bra tops under deep-necked blouses,
kurtas with controlled volumes were part of this line.
by Rohit Bal
Bal showcased a spectacular men’s wear collection
'Balance'. He began with pure white cable-knitted full-length
jackets, skirts and pants, and moved onto the black
dhoti inspired wrap-flap pants and elaborately embroidered
jackets in brown and burnished red. Magnificent capes
and ponchos, and crocheted wraps were used as accessories.
Outstanding was the of use bird motifs as embellishment-
with soaring Navajo eagles and hens predominating, in
form of embroideries and prints on almost all the ensembles.
Other jackets, equally imposing included those made
of richly coloured pink, orange, blue and multi-hued
quilted silk brocades, embroidered to princely perfection
with fine silver and gold threads, as well as Christian
priest-like cassocks in jet black; tribal red and black
pants and jackets; and Kutchi embroidered and mirror-worked
bombers. A multitude of long leather straps and silver
buckles appeared regularly, creating a sense of bondage
and authoritarianism. The jackets were teamed with massive