Beauty & Fashion >> Lakme India Fashion Week 2004

Lakme India Fashion Week – Day 3 (29th April, 2004)

'Geisha Designs' by Shalini & Paras/ 'Sanskar' by Sonam Dubal

Geisha Design's collection showcased cool strawberry and white candy striped cottons, voiles, and jacquards which were used to create trendy capris, casual jackets, flirty knee length skirts, blouses and tees, and beautiful dresses that were further embellished with appliquéd on strips and ribbons, ruffled collars, engineered floral embroidery, and ruching and gathering. The powder blues, lattes and tea rose colours of the Marie Antoinette range incorporated appliqués, cutwork and tone on tone embroideries into the vintage late-afternoon ensembles of asymmetric blouses and restrictedly voluminous skirts. The Equestrian line used traditional Indian block printed fabrics from Sanganer in natural dyed colours like neem, maroons, fuchsia and inky blue to create delicately quilted bottoms and jackets. The last line, called the Grand Duke, was truly impressive in the use of natural ecru and sand coloured khadi-silk and jacquards, embellished delicately with jewel like embroideries and fine laces.

Sanskar by Sonam Dubal is inspired by the quiet ethereal beauty of the Tibetan mountains to give spiritual and classic collection. His clothes have the effortlessness that comes from being uncontrived, frequently using the traditional eastern wrap-n-tie technique in his blouses, jackets and skirts. The subtle drapes that are incorporated in the skirts, some inspired by the bakhu and pooan, enhance their appeal, as do the saturated tones of fuchsia, magenta, purple and mauves, set against a black base. The use of jacquards with bamboo tree patterns, ornate multi-coloured brocades, and silk organzas is effective and appropriate. A line of fusion wear was also part of the range, with long black tunic coats embroidered in red and white, and worn with easy pajamas and Turkish pants in red and black, teamed with Persian fez caps.

Wendell Rodricks

A keen patron and promoter of Goan talent, Wendell's signature styles unique in India is blending ancient Indian geometry with the relaxed Goan attitude. Using natural Indian fabrics, cut in a linear line and emphasizing on concrete themes and experimental color combinations is what defines his style. It is through his sheer hard work and successive creative fashion expressions that Wendell Rodricks puts the tiny Indian state of Goa on the fashion map. The theme 'Fashion Democracy' uses a palette of Indian dulls and brights, in clothes of all sizes, shapes and ages. The collection displays the Indian design elements of geometry, drape, knots and nadas.

Manish Arora

Manish Arora’s collection had sexy silhouettes which were beautifully tailored to give a feminine look and clinging to the body for the most, only to explode into volumes at the hems, especially in case of the fabulous skirts that he crafts to perfection. Quilted corsets, oversized sweater knits, body fit tee shirts, capris, tights, cat suits, skirts, and dresses appear with large cut aways, exposing skin or at least skin tones linings and embellished with perky little bows, pleated ruffles and metallic coloured pipings. Colours in hues of green, pink, red, blue orange, red and black are jazzed up with the reinvented glow-in-the-dark fluorescents and metallics in the same colours. The accessories were as eye-catching - oversized printed and quilted bags, multi-pocketed handbags; wacky tights with the same prints as the outfits; and crazy sports shoes in shiny patent colours, silver and glow in the dark greens that were developed in collaboration with Reebok.

Monapali / Kimono by Kiran Uttam Ghosh

Monapali's collection Intense, deep and magnificent. She showcased a brilliant use of deep natural colours like ink, gray, stone, slate, midnight black, moss, and burnished salmon. Together with prints of ancient scripts, geometrics, organic forms, they form exquisite artistic compositions. Often, they are embellished further with peacock -feather coloured embroideries, crystal work, appliqué, layering and patchwork. Monapali reinterpreted the traditional definition of the saree by adding volume, layers, combing solids with prints through the use of appliqué and zardozi embroidery, ruching, and pleating, to the pallas, borders and pleated areas, and retained the same colour palette as the rest of the collection. Her collection also included lehenga-skirts, churidar pajamas, dhotis, kurtas, and seductive cholis with delicate tie-ups.

In her collection Kiran Uttam Ghosh experiments with a variety of fabrics, such as silk, cottons, georgettes, crochet, and tulle to create a collection that features glorious full skirts with multiple tiers in different traditional Indian fabrics like bandhni and tissue; asymmetric voluminous skirts with handkerchief hems; lehenga skirts; dhoti inspired pajamas and elegant coat-kurtas; and exquisite sarees. Interesting newspaper prints with headlines like 'India do it' in colours of black, white and ecru have been used, as also calligraphed scripts and lotus motifs, and some of the ensembles for evening wear features yokes with crystal webs, and embroidery in copper coloured silk thread. She accessorized the collection with amazing bags in unusual yet practical shapes and sizes, in fabrics that matched the ensembles.

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