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'Geisha
Designs' by Shalini & Paras/ 'Sanskar' by Sonam
Dubal
Geisha
Design's collection showcased cool strawberry and white
candy striped cottons, voiles, and jacquards which were
used to create trendy capris, casual jackets, flirty
knee length skirts, blouses and tees, and beautiful
dresses that were further embellished with appliquéd
on strips and ribbons, ruffled collars, engineered floral
embroidery, and ruching and gathering. The powder blues,
lattes and tea rose colours of the Marie Antoinette
range incorporated appliqués, cutwork and tone
on tone embroideries into the vintage late-afternoon
ensembles of asymmetric blouses and restrictedly voluminous
skirts. The Equestrian line used traditional Indian
block printed fabrics from Sanganer in natural dyed
colours like neem, maroons, fuchsia and inky blue to
create delicately quilted bottoms and jackets. The last
line, called the Grand Duke, was truly impressive in
the use of natural ecru and sand coloured khadi-silk
and jacquards, embellished delicately with jewel like
embroideries and fine laces.
Sanskar
by Sonam Dubal is inspired by the quiet ethereal beauty
of the Tibetan mountains to give spiritual and classic
collection. His clothes have the effortlessness that
comes from being uncontrived, frequently using the traditional
eastern wrap-n-tie technique in his blouses, jackets
and skirts. The subtle drapes that are incorporated
in the skirts, some inspired by the bakhu and pooan,
enhance their appeal, as do the saturated tones of fuchsia,
magenta, purple and mauves, set against a black base.
The use of jacquards with bamboo tree patterns, ornate
multi-coloured brocades, and silk organzas is effective
and appropriate. A line of fusion wear was also part
of the range, with long black tunic coats embroidered
in red and white, and worn with easy pajamas and Turkish
pants in red and black, teamed with Persian fez caps.
Wendell Rodricks
A
keen patron and promoter of Goan talent, Wendell's signature
styles unique in India is blending ancient Indian geometry
with the relaxed Goan attitude. Using natural Indian
fabrics, cut in a linear line and emphasizing on concrete
themes and experimental color combinations is what defines
his style. It is through his sheer hard work and successive
creative fashion expressions that Wendell Rodricks puts
the tiny Indian state of Goa on the fashion map. The
theme 'Fashion Democracy' uses a palette of Indian dulls
and brights, in clothes of all sizes, shapes and ages.
The collection displays the Indian design elements of
geometry, drape, knots and nadas.
Manish Arora
Manish
Arora’s collection had sexy silhouettes which
were beautifully tailored to give a feminine look and
clinging to the body for the most, only to explode into
volumes at the hems, especially in case of the fabulous
skirts that he crafts to perfection. Quilted corsets,
oversized sweater knits, body fit tee shirts, capris,
tights, cat suits, skirts, and dresses appear with large
cut aways, exposing skin or at least skin tones linings
and embellished with perky little bows, pleated ruffles
and metallic coloured pipings. Colours in hues of green,
pink, red, blue orange, red and black are jazzed up
with the reinvented glow-in-the-dark fluorescents and
metallics in the same colours. The accessories were
as eye-catching - oversized printed and quilted bags,
multi-pocketed handbags; wacky tights with the same
prints as the outfits; and crazy sports shoes in shiny
patent colours, silver and glow in the dark greens that
were developed in collaboration with Reebok.
Monapali / Kimono by Kiran Uttam Ghosh
Monapali's
collection Intense, deep and magnificent. She showcased
a brilliant use of deep natural colours like ink, gray,
stone, slate, midnight black, moss, and burnished salmon.
Together with prints of ancient scripts, geometrics,
organic forms, they form exquisite artistic compositions.
Often, they are embellished further with peacock -feather
coloured embroideries, crystal work, appliqué,
layering and patchwork. Monapali reinterpreted the traditional
definition of the saree by adding volume, layers, combing
solids with prints through the use of appliqué
and zardozi embroidery, ruching, and pleating, to the
pallas, borders and pleated areas, and retained the
same colour palette as the rest of the collection. Her
collection also included lehenga-skirts, churidar pajamas,
dhotis, kurtas, and seductive cholis with delicate tie-ups.
In
her collection Kiran Uttam Ghosh experiments with a
variety of fabrics, such as silk, cottons, georgettes,
crochet, and tulle to create a collection that features
glorious full skirts with multiple tiers in different
traditional Indian fabrics like bandhni and tissue;
asymmetric voluminous skirts with handkerchief hems;
lehenga skirts; dhoti inspired pajamas and elegant coat-kurtas;
and exquisite sarees. Interesting newspaper prints with
headlines like 'India do it' in colours of black, white
and ecru have been used, as also calligraphed scripts
and lotus motifs, and some of the ensembles for evening
wear features yokes with crystal webs, and embroidery
in copper coloured silk thread. She accessorized the
collection with amazing bags in unusual yet practical
shapes and sizes, in fabrics that matched the ensembles.
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