Rina Dhaka started off with a very bold and fearless
fashion statement presenting the James Bond girls with
a collection that was a delight to watch. She showcased
ivory capris, bra tops, skirts which were worn with
tights and cat-suits. The focus was on slinky body fits
achieved through stretch knit skirts that skimmed the
waist and then erupted into gorgeous volumes. Her dresses
and skirts were made up of antique looking fabrics patched
together and embellished with laces, sequins, and plenty
of glitter. The colours of this range were classic -
ivory, sage, lavender and old rose. There was beautiful
sequining in silver and gold done into fish scale perfection,
use of gold shimmer which is very strong for Spring-Summer
2005, delicately compact mushroom-underside like pleating
and joyously colourful patchwork enhanced with wool
baubles and seaming.
Jain / Niki Mahajan
Jain’s collection was a mix of masculine and feminine
influences focusing basically on classic red, white
and black colour combination in eclectic fabrics like
Scottish tartans, mesh, tweeds, faux fur, faux leather
and even corduroy, creating edgy club-wear with these
fabrics by embellishing them with metal trims and accessories.
Her collection was a mix of very wearable separates
like pleated miniskirts, pants, bomber jackets, boiler
suits, and bustiers, all of which were very young, fit
and sexy. An unexpected but truly delightful turn to
this line was the eskimo inspired collection in chic
whites and ivories.
Mahajan’s collection was a very wearable one laden
with flowers, embroideries and bearing coiled tendrils.
The silhouettes were lean, feminine, and frequently
fitted to the body, be it the slim pants, ankle length
skirts, one-piece dresses, and sexy pencil skirts. Floaty
long skirts, asymmetric dresses and wrap and tie fluid
blouses also made an appearance. In addition, she created
blouses and jackets out of spontaneous sweater-knits,
which were teamed with sexy body-fit t-shirts. Over-seaming
was a detailing she used. The colour palette was a study
in muted and vibrant shades- chrome, sulphur, mauve,
baby's breath and a myriad of greens - sage, camouflage,
mint, and spring-leaf. The finale range spoke of serious
glamour- black dresses, slim skirts, and sexy pants
that bore the floral motif in appliqué and was
accessorized with corset style belts.
Gupta / Nandita Basu
Gupta’s collection comprised of cheeky T shirts,
suits that weren't quite serious, sporty jackets, and
exquisite modern sherwanis. The colour palette had a
sense of nonchalance, with browns getting teamed with
oranges and azure blues, and maroons pairing up with
lime greens and cornflower. Various kinds of jackets
and coats were also part of his repertoire, made of
wool, felts, cottons, denims etc and bearing detailing
like rib panels, zippers, raw seam finishes, and defiant
appliqués of marijuana leaves. Of special note
were the sherwanis - lean, quilted, and in hitherto
unimaginable colours like cobalt, and red, these Indian
jackets were contemporary and trendy.
Basu’s collection comprises of fantastic jackets,
sexy pants and skirts, and thought provoking T-shirts.
Basu creates lean land ong jackets, bomber jackets,
sleeveless vest-jackets, and dress coats with exquisite
seam detailing in tone on tone colours. She cleverly
manipulates leather into paper cutwork patterns- like
strips of a Chinese lantern, eyelets and floral patterns,
besides using unhampered suede shapes as blouses. The
pants were mostly track bottoms with tie-ups and knit
cuffs at the hem, and sporty strips along the side seam
length. Her skirts were in sexy slim shapes, trimmed
with leather and quilted panels, and in vibrant colours
like mango green, orange and tomato red, as were her
fitted one-piece dresses in ivory.
Rajesh Pratap Singh
takes us through an array of vibrant colours. Red and
pink short silks are crafted into coats that fit closely
on the bust and then flare into wide hems. The skirts
that are teamed with them have asymmetric hems in the
shape of flames. Straight long dresses with prints of
ghostly images are interspersed with these ensembles.
His collection has an elegant touch that of distressed
embroideries, antique finished brocades and nubby tweeds.
In this collection, Pratap crafts graceful slim pants,
ruched and crinkled skirts, reworked sarees and dhotis,
and exquisite jackets. The jackets in old wood and coal
black, which are created using a medley of materials
like leather, space dyed-knits, and wovens, have the
stamp of a master. Each piece is given a unique detailing,
be it the backbone impression, pleating or disturbed
decolouring. His leather range is the show stealer.
& Smita Soni
Soni’s collection was a study in quiet elegance.
He worked with what appeared to be raw fabric- the ecru
and ivory tinted cottons and linens, to create exquisitely
textured fabrics and ensembles. He effectively used
surface ornamentation techniques like weaving of unfinished
fabric strips, feathering, smocking, pin-tucks, 3 dimensional
appliqués and embroideries, crinkling, and ruching
to name a few, at all points maintaining a delicate
restraint. There were asymmetric layered skirts, Turkish
pants, peplum jackets, coats with elaborate collars
revealing flashes of colours inside. The men’s
wear comprised of pants, t-shirts, jackets and shirts
based on the same theme. The colour palette was strictly
neutral, with colours like navy, brown and gold dust
providing relief to the ivories and blacks, as also
flashes of orange and fluorescent green.