& Fashion >> Lakme
India Fashion Week 2003
India Fashion Week - Day 7 (24th July 2003)
Payal's collection palette was autumnal, reminiscent
of falling leaves and deep gemstones. The first sequence
had a strongly oriental feel with acid green raw silk
brocade-edged jackets wrapped and bound by obi-style
high belts. These were worn over black skirts - not
as mini as has been the main trend this week or churidar/leggings
ruched all the way down the out seem. Faux suede was
used in beautiful patchwork skirts in multi muted shades
finished with chikan. There were several must-have lycra
tops in autumnal rusts and ochres worked with chikan
and layered. Her sequence of black trouser suits teamed
with one of the lycra tops were another must-have for
any sophisticated woman about town.
The glory of the collection was in the surface texturing,
innovative use of very basic colours and, of course
his mastery of cutting and draping techniques. The first
sequence of burnt and singed look neutrals, intricately
styled, in particular the trousers worn by Jesse with
a series of small pockets lined down the back were reminiscent
of Schiaparelli's drawer suit; the calico irregularly
tucked skirt, the skirt with round button down pocket
appliqués, the magenta rough dyed long dress
with high neck large button detailing at back and front
hip level pockets; the knee length cream belted and
skirted coat, the long indigo flared coat with red topstitching,
the formal dark navy coat that flowed to the ground
in a gentle flare, the fabulous prints of scissors,
keys, coat hangers which looked as if they must have
been achieved with a photographic technique. This collection
From a designer whose colour palette is so often vibrant
we saw a much more subdued mood, with colours ranging
from white, to greys, indigos, blacks and taupes. Her
western silhouettes were created from a variety of modern
fabrics including lycra, for a body hugging line, georgette,
and panné velvet. There were lots of Indian touches
to be seen, like chikan, mirrorwork, leheriya, tribal
embroidery (one of the only flashes of bright colour),ikat
prints, gota and beadwork. Skirt lengths were short,
often with the flippy asymmetric hem lines that Anita
Dongre did so well. Trousers were slim line flares.
The first sequence of the Satya Paul collection was
in black red and white printed with Oriental calligraphy.
The lines were clean and uncluttered. Western fusion
shapes: mini dresses, kurti churidars, ruched slinky
pants in silk crepe de chines. Next was a sequence of
slightly 60s looking spotty pints: white on strong pastels.
This dotty theme went into a line of georgette saris.
The next sequence was again in pastels, but this time
all stripes: horizontal, vertical diagonal and chevrons.
Pants were wide legged flares or slimline understated
flares. There was a lot of lycra as mini dresses and
This year, Mumbai-based Hemant Trevedi and Goan Wendell
Rodricks were the grand finale designers. Wendell Rodricks
showcased his collection for three Indian weathers in
geometrical Indian shapes. He kept his emphasis on concrete
themes, experimental color combinations and exotic fiber
weaves. Skirts were with deep slits, trousers, tops,
shirts, wraps and jackets. The fabrics used were lycra,
crepe, georgettes and synthetic fiber.The colour palette
ranged from blue, light green, red and turquoise. While
Hemant Trivedi presented his creative brush with fabric
to provide another skin. Hot weather story in warm tones,
wet story for a more youthful, sexy and club-wear attitude
and cool weather story with extensive embellishments
on airy fabrics like chiffon and georgettes. Skirts
were long and minis, wraps, body-hugging tops and trousers.
Fabrics used were blue denim, lycra, chiffon and georgettes.
And the colour palette ranged from blue, pink, orange,
green and beige.