& Fashion >> Lakme
India Fashion Week 2003
India Fashion Week - Day 6 (23rd July 2003)
The theme of this collection was western, but traditional
Indian silhouettes like kurtas, achkans, Nehru collared
jackets, appliqué gave the clothes an essentially
Indian look. Trousers were wider then most we have seen
this week, with deep turn-ups. The culottes were innovatively
cut with asymmetric hems plunging downwards at the out
seam. In the next set Georgette achkans were teamed
with cowl trousers which draped beautifully. A georgette
sari was given a very contemporary urban twist with
This collection had a neutral palette of off whites
and creams in western and fusion silhouettes. We saw
a Prada inspired ruched and bound geogette top teamed
with a long straight skirt with golden edged mirror
work on the body which then fell straight plain to the
ankles. Boob tubes appeared over trousers and skirts.
As the show went on, the typical Mahajan colour sensibility
kicked into gear. The palette ranged from pink, yellow,
green and turquoise. Silhouettes veered more towards
Indian, but many pieces would look great in the Mediterranean
sun. Boob tubes continued in third last range, along
with long straight skirts, gently flared lehengas, and
wide diaphanous pants.
This was a collection of pure elegance. The first range
was ivory georgettes, with self-coloured discreet embroidery
segueing into green/red on ivory. The silhouettes were
western fusion: straight kurta of varying lengths and
asymmetrical hemlines over western wide flares. The
finale of the Ashima Leena show was a superbly elegant
line of black georgette kurta over western style pants
or kurta ruched at the inside back leg. These ensembles
were embellished with predominantly dull gold embroidery
of impactful Chinese emblems.
The Monapali collection began with a line of very exotic
but understated outfits on mother of pearl colours in
crushed silks draped into dhoti style skirts with printed
tops. The collection unfolded into an explosion of Punjabi
phulkari inspired colour: fire oranges, reds and yellows.
The fabrics in the finale range were and spray painted,
first machine embroidered with a phulkari style design
then embroidered again, this time by hand. Then they
were further embellished with appliqué, rhinestones,
terracotta beads, and gota work.
Arora Sen - A Small Shop
Sen is one of our brightest young talents, who will
surely go on to become an internationally recognised
designer. Her collection showed her fabulous colour
sense, minute attention to detail and skilful cutting.
All the fabrics used were silks, dyed in 22 different
colours, often crushed and water treated. The appliqués
and beaded embellishments were 3D, bringing to life
exotic jungle flowers. There was a vivid jungle print
that brought to mind a Henri Rousseau painting. The
collection was beautifully accesorised by soft silk
slippers and bags.
This collection showcased fusion silhouettes: flared
pants, straight pants, ponchos, (for guys and girls.)
For the guys there was wild western shirts - with fringing,
a motif that featured on the women's range as well.
A style note here: he showed a very interesting take
on layering with trousers that fell straight and narrow
to just below the knee, then emerging from the fringed
hem were churidars to finish the silhouette. The fringing
also appeared down the sleeves of the women's shirts.
This rugged western theme was echoed by the use of corduroy,
particularly on mens' jackets and denims in both ranges.
The colour palette was damped down to the ecrus, vanillas,
ivories that we've been seeing as a major trend this
week accompanied by the ubiquitous black.
by Meera & Muzaffar Ali
The show opened with a deliciously simple range of fine
cottons. The silhouettes were Indo-fusion; cropped very
wide legged trousers under high to mid-thigh length
kurtas cut from under the bust line. The palette for
this sequence was strong pastels. The embroidery was
as delicate and fine as we would expect from them. The
next series was a western line which incorporated traditional
Indian fabrics; khadi and surface techniques: chikan
badla with western style separates. The ivory lycra
mini dress, starkly plain under a gossamer ankle length
'coat was beautiful. The sari sequence was characterized
by the slightly off beat, very effective colour combinations:
lime & magenta.