Anjana Bhargav
The theme of this collection was western, but traditional Indian silhouettes like kurtas, achkans, Nehru collared jackets, appliqué gave the clothes an essentially Indian look. Trousers were wider then most we have seen this week, with deep turn-ups. The culottes were innovatively cut with asymmetric hems plunging downwards at the out seam. In the next set Georgette achkans were teamed with cowl trousers which draped beautifully. A georgette sari was given a very contemporary urban twist with denim highlights.

Niki Mahajan
This collection had a neutral palette of off whites and creams in western and fusion silhouettes. We saw a Prada inspired ruched and bound geogette top teamed with a long straight skirt with golden edged mirror work on the body which then fell straight plain to the ankles. Boob tubes appeared over trousers and skirts. As the show went on, the typical Mahajan colour sensibility kicked into gear. The palette ranged from pink, yellow, green and turquoise. Silhouettes veered more towards Indian, but many pieces would look great in the Mediterranean sun. Boob tubes continued in third last range, along with long straight skirts, gently flared lehengas, and wide diaphanous pants.

Ashima Leena
This was a collection of pure elegance. The first range was ivory georgettes, with self-coloured discreet embroidery segueing into green/red on ivory. The silhouettes were western fusion: straight kurta of varying lengths and asymmetrical hemlines over western wide flares. The finale of the Ashima Leena show was a superbly elegant line of black georgette kurta over western style pants or kurta ruched at the inside back leg. These ensembles were embellished with predominantly dull gold embroidery of impactful Chinese emblems.

Monapali
The Monapali collection began with a line of very exotic but understated outfits on mother of pearl colours in crushed silks draped into dhoti style skirts with printed tops. The collection unfolded into an explosion of Punjabi phulkari inspired colour: fire oranges, reds and yellows. The fabrics in the finale range were and spray painted, first machine embroidered with a phulkari style design then embroidered again, this time by hand. Then they were further embellished with appliqué, rhinestones, terracotta beads, and gota work.

Anshu Arora Sen - A Small Shop
Sen is one of our brightest young talents, who will surely go on to become an internationally recognised designer. Her collection showed her fabulous colour sense, minute attention to detail and skilful cutting. All the fabrics used were silks, dyed in 22 different colours, often crushed and water treated. The appliqués and beaded embellishments were 3D, bringing to life exotic jungle flowers. There was a vivid jungle print that brought to mind a Henri Rousseau painting. The collection was beautifully accesorised by soft silk slippers and bags.

Studio Valaya
This collection showcased fusion silhouettes: flared pants, straight pants, ponchos, (for guys and girls.) For the guys there was wild western shirts - with fringing, a motif that featured on the women's range as well. A style note here: he showed a very interesting take on layering with trousers that fell straight and narrow to just below the knee, then emerging from the fringed hem were churidars to finish the silhouette. The fringing also appeared down the sleeves of the women's shirts. This rugged western theme was echoed by the use of corduroy, particularly on mens' jackets and denims in both ranges. The colour palette was damped down to the ecrus, vanillas, ivories that we've been seeing as a major trend this week accompanied by the ubiquitous black.

Kotwara by Meera & Muzaffar Ali
The show opened with a deliciously simple range of fine cottons. The silhouettes were Indo-fusion; cropped very wide legged trousers under high to mid-thigh length kurtas cut from under the bust line. The palette for this sequence was strong pastels. The embroidery was as delicate and fine as we would expect from them. The next series was a western line which incorporated traditional Indian fabrics; khadi and surface techniques: chikan badla with western style separates. The ivory lycra mini dress, starkly plain under a gossamer ankle length 'coat was beautiful. The sari sequence was characterized by the slightly off beat, very effective colour combinations: lime & magenta.