Beauty & Fashion >> Lakme India Fashion Week 2003

Lakme India Fashion Week - Day 5 (22nd July 2003)

Anuradha Vakil
Anuradha started off with a subtly worked range of indigo dyed saris and kurta/churidars featuring Kutchi bandhini and badla work. Innovation came not only from the contemporisation of the traditional Kutchi colour palette and adaptation of the resist dye techniques, but Vakil also showed some interesting design features with daringly low plunging 'V' necks and a well managed square neck that dipped low at the back.Other of her ranges featured Chettinad weaving, and an empathetic mélange of antique and contemporary pieces.

Manju & Bobby Grover
This collection started off with a line of soft feminine pastels in western silhouettes. The key piece in the range was a lovely calf length handkerchief hem georgette dress with hip sashes and a high neckline that plunged dramatically at the back. The most interesting line was one of crinkle cut tops of varying styles and lengths in muted colours worn over long skirts or pants and finished with dramatic brocade obis.

Monisha Jaising
Monisha Jaising's collection was gorgeous and absolutely wearable. She always makes it a point that her collection is at par with the latest trends and is also innovative. The silhouettes were pure western. The fabrics were pure Indian. Trousers were flares or track pant based: great in linen with go-faster stripes on the out seam. Skirts were micro, so were the shorts (stock up on the anti cellulite creams, girls), lower calf, or even dipping to ankle length. The long black skirts that sat just below the waist were pleated from exaggeratedly wide belt loops supporting heavy leather belts. Tops were heavily eighties influenced silk slinky or sportswear style cotton lycra ribbed cuff and waistbands on Chinese embroidered georgette. The colour palette went from powder blue and baby pink through to rich wine and beige, and finally, black.

Krishna Mehta
This collection was all western silhouette with a rich variety of natural Indian fabrics, dying, hand painting, weaving, colour sensibility and embroidery. Skirts were micro-short layered over longer skirts often slit to above the knee, or wrapped sashes at the hips. The sashes were also worn by the guys over straight western pants. Women's trousers were straight and flared, but the flares were usually slit to the knee on the out seam. Colours were rich Indian jewel colours with strong flashes of diamond white. Various resist dye techniques gave added texture. A beautiful shot silk green asymmetrical dress was tie dyed in a spider web design was simple gorgeous.

Neeta Bhargava
Neeta's creation was a blend of western silhouettes and saris. The palette was muted. Petrol blue, grey, tobacco. Mini's were not as miniscule as we've seen so far this week, nor were the shorts. Net made another appearance in this collection. The first section had lots of metallic designs which gave it quite a warrior-like ambiance.

In this collection there were several colour palettes. The first was clear white with rani pink and orange sequin work based around a peacock theme. This sequed into a sequence of soft,feminine pastels. Then a change of pace to a dramatic range of graphic chevron stripes in bold colourways: lime and lavender, lavender and orange. These western silhouettes included cropped trousers and flares, micro minis, kurtas and off the shoulder tops. The second part of Tarana's show was classic Indian. No salwars: only churidars and western pants. Kurtas fell from mid thigh to the knee. The high point of the collection was a black georgette kurta with western pants, embroidered in a very striking peacock blue.

Tarun Tahiliani
Tarun's collection was pure patriotic with beautifully crafted, stunningly styled clothes that had exquisite embroidery, quilting, ruching and draping in fabulous fabrics. Skirt lengths and shapes were democratic. Trousers were wide and flowing Tibetan or palazzos, there were still plenty of flares. The mouthwateringly soft tan suede range was luxurious; embroidered in gold and precisely cut. There was a sherwani, over flared trousers, and a knee length straight fitting skirt. Tarun also featured his beautiful chikan range. Another Tarun trademark was the Grecian goddess range of sophisticated evening wear in a rainbow of solid colours from Emerald to citrus yellow to tangerine to orange. Pashminas were used to drape and soften silhouettes, feathers trimmed saris and Swarovski crystals glittered richly.

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