& Fashion >> Lakme
India Fashion Week 2003
India Fashion Week - Day 5 (22nd July 2003)
Anuradha started off with a subtly worked range of indigo
dyed saris and kurta/churidars featuring Kutchi bandhini
and badla work. Innovation came not only from the contemporisation
of the traditional Kutchi colour palette and adaptation
of the resist dye techniques, but Vakil also showed
some interesting design features with daringly low plunging
'V' necks and a well managed square neck that dipped
low at the back.Other of her ranges featured Chettinad
weaving, and an empathetic mélange of antique
and contemporary pieces.
& Bobby Grover
This collection started off with a line of soft feminine
pastels in western silhouettes. The key piece in the
range was a lovely calf length handkerchief hem georgette
dress with hip sashes and a high neckline that plunged
dramatically at the back. The most interesting line
was one of crinkle cut tops of varying styles and lengths
in muted colours worn over long skirts or pants and
finished with dramatic brocade obis.
Monisha Jaising's collection was gorgeous and absolutely
wearable. She always makes it a point that her collection
is at par with the latest trends and is also innovative.
The silhouettes were pure western. The fabrics were
pure Indian. Trousers were flares or track pant based:
great in linen with go-faster stripes on the out seam.
Skirts were micro, so were the shorts (stock up on the
anti cellulite creams, girls), lower calf, or even dipping
to ankle length. The long black skirts that sat just
below the waist were pleated from exaggeratedly wide
belt loops supporting heavy leather belts. Tops were
heavily eighties influenced silk slinky or sportswear
style cotton lycra ribbed cuff and waistbands on Chinese
embroidered georgette. The colour palette went from
powder blue and baby pink through to rich wine and beige,
and finally, black.
This collection was all western silhouette with a rich
variety of natural Indian fabrics, dying, hand painting,
weaving, colour sensibility and embroidery. Skirts were
micro-short layered over longer skirts often slit to
above the knee, or wrapped sashes at the hips. The sashes
were also worn by the guys over straight western pants.
Women's trousers were straight and flared, but the flares
were usually slit to the knee on the out seam. Colours
were rich Indian jewel colours with strong flashes of
diamond white. Various resist dye techniques gave added
texture. A beautiful shot silk green asymmetrical dress
was tie dyed in a spider web design was simple gorgeous.
Neeta's creation was a blend of western silhouettes
and saris. The palette was muted. Petrol blue, grey,
tobacco. Mini's were not as miniscule as we've seen
so far this week, nor were the shorts. Net made another
appearance in this collection. The first section had
lots of metallic designs which gave it quite a warrior-like
In this collection there were several colour palettes.
The first was clear white with rani pink and orange
sequin work based around a peacock theme. This sequed
into a sequence of soft,feminine pastels. Then a change
of pace to a dramatic range of graphic chevron stripes
in bold colourways: lime and lavender, lavender and
orange. These western silhouettes included cropped trousers
and flares, micro minis, kurtas and off the shoulder
tops. The second part of Tarana's show was classic Indian.
No salwars: only churidars and western pants. Kurtas
fell from mid thigh to the knee. The high point of the
collection was a black georgette kurta with western
pants, embroidered in a very striking peacock blue.
Tarun's collection was pure patriotic with beautifully
crafted, stunningly styled clothes that had exquisite
embroidery, quilting, ruching and draping in fabulous
fabrics. Skirt lengths and shapes were democratic. Trousers
were wide and flowing Tibetan or palazzos, there were
still plenty of flares. The mouthwateringly soft tan
suede range was luxurious; embroidered in gold and precisely
cut. There was a sherwani, over flared trousers, and
a knee length straight fitting skirt. Tarun also featured
his beautiful chikan range. Another Tarun trademark
was the Grecian goddess range of sophisticated evening
wear in a rainbow of solid colours from Emerald to citrus
yellow to tangerine to orange. Pashminas were used to
drape and soften silhouettes, feathers trimmed saris
and Swarovski crystals glittered richly.