& Fashion >> Lakme
India Fashion Week 2003
India Fashion Week - Day 4 (21th July 2003)
Rao's design was guided by her inner impulses, heavily
inspired by her favourite music. The palette was soft
muted pastels: lilac, mint, blue, pink. The lines were
clean and soft: an Indo-west mix of component parts
that gave a balanced whole. All her fabrics are comfortable
naturals. She made great use of ramie mixed with silk
to give a cool translucency.
Sabyasachi's work resounds with a sense of utter freshness
and intelligence. The collection was inspired, in part,
by the streets of Victorian London and Calcutta, defined
by Sabyasachi's ethos of cross cultural fashion and
his desire to portray a sense of innocence. The silhouettes
were varied and multi-faceted. Often layered or oversized.
Off the shoulder cotton knits over more skimpy body
hugging knits; long knit cardigans over tiered skirts;
ruched and smocked detached sleeves worn with sleeveless
vests or camisoles. Dhoti-like pants caught at the ankle
with buckled straps on the guys, or under short, tailored
western jackets by the girls; saris were so stylized
that they were barely recognizable. Guys wore long kurtas
over pajama pants cropped to the lower calf. Otherwise
mens' trousers were straight, wide and ankle length.
Skirts flowed long, often paneled. The collection was
accessorized with boxing gloves, oversized swagbags,
crocheted shoulder bags, tiffin carriers gold plimsoles,
extra long scarves.
Her colour palate included vibrant colours like purple,
orange, pink, green, red which set the tone for the
eclecticism of silhouettes and innovation. Corsets in
shimmering silks, empire line tops and dresses, cotton
layered skirts with tattered hemlines, or straight and
skinny in brocades and silks; a lightweight coat reminiscent
of a highwayman's over a kurta and churidar. Western
trousers were sexy tight. Crazy, but it worked, because
the kaleidoscope of colour, the textures and the silhouettes
had been carefully thought through.
Her collection was a beautiful showcase of bright and
vibrant colours like rani pink, yellow, orange, blue
and turquoise predominated with a slash or two of black
or white. As for cut, her trousers were straight, sometimes
cropped below the knee, knickerbockers, but not a flare
to be seen. Skirts were long and straight, long and
trimmed with frills and ruffles. A particularly appealing
skirt was in a white cotton sunray pin tucked from the
waist with multi coloured thread and edged in colour.
Tops were kurtis, sometimes asymmetric, camis, or long
straight kurtas over straight leg western pants. A defining
item was a lovely blue Kimono style wrap top edged in
& Vijay Arora
The show started with a range of soft toned ikat silks:
as pants ruched to just below the knee, or flared from
the knee - both teamed with kurtis in toning solid colours.
Women's trousers were generally flares split to the
knee, with tunic/ kurta tops. Shapes for the guys were
trousers cropped to below the knee, churidars or full-length
straight-legged western pants. These were worn with
kurtas: either long or short or with the, occasional
cowboy style shirt. Colour palette for women moved from
graphic black on white to a more off beat combination
of black / brown, crushed strawberry/ turquoise/ lovat
while for guys it was more neutral with creams and naturals.
by Paras & Shalini
The collection started off with some superbly cut skirts
that swayed to the ground with beautiful cut bias cut
insets at the back to give a train like effect. The
first we saw was white with primarily reed embroidery.
Next out were a couple of strong red western ensembles
heavy with gold embellishments. One was remarkable for
its tapering silhouette thanks to some 80s style shoulder
pads. A dramatic change then to a Courreges/ Rabanne
graphic monochrome range of long, slinky, western evening
gowns and a very 60s space age trouser suit. The sari
rage that followed was pure traditional.
Dongre's collection gave a touch of the wild Savannah
with Dongre's beautifully produced digital prints inspired
by the Masai Mara tribe. Her silhouettes were simple
to offset the earthy prints to their best advantage.
The skirts and dresses were impressively cut with delightful,
fluted, bias cut hemlines that became a signature of
the collection. Tops were tunic/kurtas. A magical piece
was a bright, burnt orange skirt, beautifully cut with
a great flounce that flipped to flash the rich brown
The key piece of Puri's collection was a beautiful horizontally
pleated western mini dress worn under a gold and white
cutwork jacket. So many silhouettes, to choose from,
that to clarify the statement the entire collection
remained true to the colour theme. There was a Grecian
feel, with georgette draped, and slashed in a style
that brought to mind the boldest of the 80's party scenes.