Beauty & Fashion >> Lakme India Fashion Week 2003

Lakme India Fashion Week - Day 4 (21th July 2003)

Priyadarshini Rao
Rao's design was guided by her inner impulses, heavily inspired by her favourite music. The palette was soft muted pastels: lilac, mint, blue, pink. The lines were clean and soft: an Indo-west mix of component parts that gave a balanced whole. All her fabrics are comfortable naturals. She made great use of ramie mixed with silk to give a cool translucency.


Sabyasachi's work resounds with a sense of utter freshness and intelligence. The collection was inspired, in part, by the streets of Victorian London and Calcutta, defined by Sabyasachi's ethos of cross cultural fashion and his desire to portray a sense of innocence. The silhouettes were varied and multi-faceted. Often layered or oversized. Off the shoulder cotton knits over more skimpy body hugging knits; long knit cardigans over tiered skirts; ruched and smocked detached sleeves worn with sleeveless vests or camisoles. Dhoti-like pants caught at the ankle with buckled straps on the guys, or under short, tailored western jackets by the girls; saris were so stylized that they were barely recognizable. Guys wore long kurtas over pajama pants cropped to the lower calf. Otherwise mens' trousers were straight, wide and ankle length. Skirts flowed long, often paneled. The collection was accessorized with boxing gloves, oversized swagbags, crocheted shoulder bags, tiffin carriers gold plimsoles, extra long scarves.

Kavita Bhartia
Her colour palate included vibrant colours like purple, orange, pink, green, red which set the tone for the eclecticism of silhouettes and innovation. Corsets in shimmering silks, empire line tops and dresses, cotton layered skirts with tattered hemlines, or straight and skinny in brocades and silks; a lightweight coat reminiscent of a highwayman's over a kurta and churidar. Western trousers were sexy tight. Crazy, but it worked, because the kaleidoscope of colour, the textures and the silhouettes had been carefully thought through.

Aparna Jagdhari
Her collection was a beautiful showcase of bright and vibrant colours like rani pink, yellow, orange, blue and turquoise predominated with a slash or two of black or white. As for cut, her trousers were straight, sometimes cropped below the knee, knickerbockers, but not a flare to be seen. Skirts were long and straight, long and trimmed with frills and ruffles. A particularly appealing skirt was in a white cotton sunray pin tucked from the waist with multi coloured thread and edged in colour. Tops were kurtis, sometimes asymmetric, camis, or long straight kurtas over straight leg western pants. A defining item was a lovely blue Kimono style wrap top edged in vibrant red.

Shobhna & Vijay Arora
The show started with a range of soft toned ikat silks: as pants ruched to just below the knee, or flared from the knee - both teamed with kurtis in toning solid colours. Women's trousers were generally flares split to the knee, with tunic/ kurta tops. Shapes for the guys were trousers cropped to below the knee, churidars or full-length straight-legged western pants. These were worn with kurtas: either long or short or with the, occasional cowboy style shirt. Colour palette for women moved from graphic black on white to a more off beat combination of black / brown, crushed strawberry/ turquoise/ lovat while for guys it was more neutral with creams and naturals.

Geisha by Paras & Shalini
The collection started off with some superbly cut skirts that swayed to the ground with beautiful cut bias cut insets at the back to give a train like effect. The first we saw was white with primarily reed embroidery. Next out were a couple of strong red western ensembles heavy with gold embellishments. One was remarkable for its tapering silhouette thanks to some 80s style shoulder pads. A dramatic change then to a Courreges/ Rabanne graphic monochrome range of long, slinky, western evening gowns and a very 60s space age trouser suit. The sari rage that followed was pure traditional.

Anita Dongre
Dongre's collection gave a touch of the wild Savannah with Dongre's beautifully produced digital prints inspired by the Masai Mara tribe. Her silhouettes were simple to offset the earthy prints to their best advantage. The skirts and dresses were impressively cut with delightful, fluted, bias cut hemlines that became a signature of the collection. Tops were tunic/kurtas. A magical piece was a bright, burnt orange skirt, beautifully cut with a great flounce that flipped to flash the rich brown lining.

Priya Kataria Puri
The key piece of Puri's collection was a beautiful horizontally pleated western mini dress worn under a gold and white cutwork jacket. So many silhouettes, to choose from, that to clarify the statement the entire collection remained true to the colour theme. There was a Grecian feel, with georgette draped, and slashed in a style that brought to mind the boldest of the 80's party scenes.

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