& Fashion >> Lakme
India Fashion Week 2003
India Fashion Week - Day 3 (20th July 2003)
by Kiran Uttam Ghosh
Kiran's collection highlighted the art of contemporizing
beautiful Indian textiles full of colour and life by
setting them on wearable modern silhouettes. The first
element of the collection featured brilliant tribal
weaves in orange, fuschia, wine, and rust from the North
East against a black ground. Silhouettes were generally
slim and long: lungis with t-shirts, waistcoats, wrap
tops and shirts. The next collection featured black
crochet long skirt, some very sexy trousers in the same
black crochet. The next range was short kurtas styled
as mini dress. The finale was a grey lungi with drape
Her collection started off with soft off-white creased
voile over sand leheriya layered, inset, or as appliquéd
flowers that would look equally at home in a balmy Goan
beach bar or a Mediterranean taverna. Silhouettes were
floaty and western/fusion. Then came a denim line: bleached,
worn and distressed jeans teamed with a range of pastel
tops highlighted with ribbons, sequins and fraying.
Lina's finale was very soft feminine range of dusty
ombre pastel trousers and long skirts teamed with softly
coloured brocade shirts, camis and kurtis.
Anamika Khanna showcased Indian textile craft on Indian
silhouettes but with an innovative and bold style. The
collection was beautifully embellished with appliqué
and traditional kanta work over delicate block printing
on net, muslins and cottons. Cutting edge styled with
leg warmers and wrapped tops, bound and gagged with
webbing straps. This was the creative work of Khanna
which was refreshing and sexy.
She is one exceptionally talented designer and has immensely
matured over the last couple of years. Her collection
showcased a wide, kind-of- harem-pants/not-quite-dhotis-but-almost,
executed in fine apricot toned brocade silk. There were
also some finely done wrap pants in printed georgette
that flowed beautifully. The corset tops may not have
been so innovative, but they were beautifully tailored
Manish's collection has a very heavy Oriental influence.
The feel came from the prints, colours, embroideries
and fabrics not the silhouettes. The silhouettes were
eclectic and refreshingly well assembled. A variation
of puffballs re-emerged, but in such softly draped fabrics
that made that best forgotten 80s nightmare finally
wearable. Track pant variations appeared slashed from
ankle to thigh in a sexy retake. Trouser shapes were
straight, sometimes gathered or elasticized at the ankle.
Skirts were all lengths, bum skimming, mid-thigh pleated
or tight minis layered over gathered nets to the ankles.
The colour palette was red, multi-fluoro, gold &
bronze. Red, a dominating theme gave an Imperial China
feel with gold screen-printed Oriental motifs on soft
In Arjun's collection was a blend of Indian and western
silhouettes.The workmanship in the embroidery on the
Indian range was exquisite, as was Arjun's colour sensibility:
duck egg blue kurtas under navy sherwanis embellished
with duck egg and multi coloured embroidery. The western
range in particular showed great personality. The suits,
in nark or black flashed brilliant red silk linings
and red or multi coloured button hole and 'perfect release'
cuff details. The jeans were given that special touch;
they were hand painted by Sunil Padwal.