Krishna Mehta

Krishna Mehta's collection was simple, elegant, light as froth, playful and refreshing. Mehta presented lines of casual wear in form of skirts and blouses, dresses, jeans and kaftans. The soft chiffon skirts were composed of layers of milkshake white and strawberry pink, and teamed with polka dot printed halter blouses and shirts. Blouses with patched feather edged ribbons in pink/ beige/ white were sweet and wearable. A more formal variation was the line of tone on tone chikankari embroidered knee length skirts, long kurtas with long side slits, and halter blouses in colours of milk, baby pink, powder blue, and fuchsia. The trendy denim wear in form of jeans- with straight lengths/ tight draw string hems/ and ruching had excellent shapes that made it sexy in the way denim wear is expected to be. Evening options came in form of off shoulder dresses, blouses and skirts with frayed ribbon patchwork in berry, pink and black, with silver streaks running down their length. The final line was radically different from all the others by Mehts. It consisted of brightly coloured tie-dyed chiffons in red-orange, black-white, blue-white, and browns, that were crafted into long easy kaftans with matching inner slips that accommodated the oversized necklines, which were embroidered in silver.

Ashima – Leena

Ashima - Leena's collection was a superb blend of ancient cultures from Central Asia, medieval Europe and India. The first line reflecting Egyptian influences appeared in the form of simple separates of long skirts, light tops, tunics and pajamas in asymmetrically patched panels of fine sand and black stripes. The necklines were elaborately embellished with beads and embroideries in lapis lazuli, cornelian, and jade colours to give the impression of the traditional Egyptian neckpieces. Lotus flowers were embroidered along the hems of the pajamas and on the stoles. Dramatic winter looks were created by the vintage European line, in warm colours of red, maroon, black and browns. Red devore pants were paired with kurtis bearing brown print appliqués and red velvet patches. Textured silk tweeds were used to create draped skirts, and accessorized with faux fur wraps. The Mughal line in deep reds and antique brocade patchwork was joyous and festive. Tiered long and short gathered skirts, sarees with elaborate borders and pallas, and kurtis-palazzo pant ensembles were predominant. The finale was in classic red and black crepes, with geometric patterned embellishment in form of triangular suede appliqués, mirrors and silver coloured sequin work.

Shantanu & Nikhil

Inspired by the emotional reaction to the harshness of the Christian era, Shantanu and Nikhil recreated the raw and pure beauty in their collection entitled 'After Death'. The colour palette was adapted from non-coloured dust, stone and metal hues, and occasionally embellished in silver, ferrous and black. Fabrics ranged from the free-floating chiffons to handloom silks, jacquards, wools and flimsy rayon jersey. Texture was predominant, be it in form of embroidery, feathering, seaming or just the natural texture of the fabric. The embellishment was unique in that it had movement reminiscent of strokes from Van Gogh paintings - strong and in bold curved arcs. Antique coins were also used on the garments, to enhance the sense of antiquity. The collection consisted of exquisite deconstructed and restructured architectural jackets and skirts, many of them fluting into feminine flared hems. The dresses had fine line sequins in black and silver, also in sweeping arcs. The knife pleated skirts were left elegantly unfinished and unrefined. Coin encrusted shrugs covered the shoulders of the draped blouses. These were made of gold coloured rayon jersey that lent itself beautifully to the gentle drapes, cowls and natural folds that were the chief design details of the asymmetric organic shaped blouses.

Deepika Govind and Varun Bahl

Connectivity was the underlying theme of Deepika Govind's collection. A range of skirts and pants were presented for men and women that were teamed with complex uppers. The blouses were characterized by multiple irreverent layers composed of patches and panels of differently textured fabrics. Chiffons, jacquards and embroidered panels appeared to be held together with knots of fabric ropes. Recycled fabrics enhanced the ornamentation of the seamless engineered garments. The pleated wrap front pants, chudi-pants, and illusionary double pleated trousers made for interesting bottomwear. The colour palette was warm vintage, with plenty of rose, peach, copper and sand, and some of the other fabrics used were silk, corn silk, modal, and lycra blends.

First timer at the LIFW, Varun Bahl presented a stunning autumn/ winter 2004 collection. His understanding of fabric compositions is outstanding as is his sensitivity to shapes, and design detailing. He juxtaposes winter fabrics like silk velvet with delicate chiffons, tulles and ornate jacquards, and used them in colours like old moss, dirty gold, wood, and murky blue. The palette is warm and winter worthy, especially the use of the murky blue to perk up the other deep dirty colours. He creates a range of skirts, tops, dresses, shawl coats for women, and pants, shirts and jackets for men. The use of techniques like partial layering in assorted fabrics, sequined base fabric worked over with untwisted wool yarns, organic patchwork, whimsical embroidery placements, and quilting combined with beetle-wing coloured beads, were unique and exciting. The men's wear continued on the same lines, with fringed and embroidered scarves that looked nice and uniquely attractive.

Lakme Grand Finale

Three designers, Aki Narula, Anshu Arora Sen and Anamika Khanna were selected to present the Lakme Grand Finale. The Lakme Fashion Statement was interpreted by Anshu Arora Sen, Aki Narula and Anamika Khanna as “Fruit Shock”. While Anshu worked with the theme of "Pop'', Aki concentrated on "Crush'' and Anamika played around with "Burst''. A riot of colours - inspired by the theme - the ramp saw some innovations in terms of silhouettes and cuts. The first to go was designer Anshu Arora Sen who presented "Pop". Her clothes were quirky and fun, with strings, plastic ribbons and painted fruits attached to them.

Carrying forward the mood to the beat of some heavy techno music was Aki Narula's collection, "Crush". Dominated by snazzy prints and texturised fabrics, Aki's collection was playful and lively and was inspired by juicy fruits. Last up was Anamika Khanna with "Burst" as models with designer earmuffs swayed down the ramp. Her clothes, which seemed full of energy, had vivid colours and were heavily texturised.